Perth, Australia

Perth

I’m going to be straight with you, reader. While I currently carve out a living as one of London’s harried, tube-dwelling residents, the place I really call home is smaller, sunnier and altogether more peaceful.

So while the following guide may be on the biased side, most always seem to find something golden and memorable to take away from my hometown, a little place they call Perth.

One of the world’s most remote capital cities, and located in Australia’s largest state, Perth’s isolation is both a drawback and a trump card. Often overlooked by bands on the Australian tour circuit because of its off-the-chart position, the city’s own music scene has grown in breadth and style, developing a healthy reputation both locally and abroad.

With a textbook Mediterranean climate, miles of pristine coastline, and a thriving, modern city centre, the jewel of the west coast looks pretty decent on paper. It can also be held responsible for a recent crop of talented exports hailing from its sandy shores. One glance at the city’s alumni brings up ‘other-worldly’ international model Gemma Ward, Borat’s missus Isla Fisher, and the late, great Heath Ledger. But while its wunderkind new generation acts out on the world stage, there’s plenty to keep Perth’s own burgeoning star well on the up-and-up.

Fanning out from the snaky Swan River, the best action is located in several self-contained enclaves in, or not far from, the city centre. In the CBD itself, don’t miss the tiki-themed Hula Bula Bar for epic cocktails and kitschy dance moments. Tiger Tiger does excellent coffee of a weekday, and be sure to totter along King Street for Varga Girl (ladies), Subway DC (gents too) and the requisite branches of all your favourite big-namers. 

A little further afield, and a little less populated by tourists and city kids, Mt Lawley is your go-to place for records (Planet Video), books (Planet Books), and your fill of quirky one-off shops. The Flying Scotsman is popular among (thirsty) artful boys in slim jeans and girls with Betty Page fringes, and Globe does a yummy weekend breakfast-with-the-papers. For obliging bar staff, Aussie pub grub, and a refreshingly periodic spritz of water on sweltering days, point your toes in the direction of Beaufort Street’s The Queens, a city stalwart from afternoon to evening. Finally, The Brisbane has brought the west’s famous Sunday session back to Mt Lawley. The best in the country by geographical fortune (the sun sets over the ocean here), The Brissy’s version promises only nice drinks, nice setting and nice clientele – it would be rude to ask for more. Finish with a nightcap at Luxe (within staggering distance) and go home happy.

Located conveniently next to one another, old-money Subiaco and Leederville boast tree-lined promenades, some pretty fine green spaces, and lot of choice if you happen to be hungry, thirsty, or looking for attention. Tucked away in a Subi side street, George’s Meze does quality Greek food with a smile, or for Indian butter chicken and a well-stocked drinks cabinet, try Buddha Bar on Rokeby Road. Incidentally, tipple is what these suburbs do best. Dress up, avoid the queues (it’s likely to be empty inside), and get a little tipsy at Niche (Leederville), Pure Bar (Subiaco), or the Subiaco Hotel.

It would be somewhat remiss of me not to mention Perth’s more natural charms, because life isn’t all about getting on the lash. There are surf beaches (Trigg, Scarborough), glam beaches (Cottesloe), and beaches where you can park your towel in the sand and not catch glimpse of another human for hours (scan West Coast Highway until you find an empty carpark). The Swan River foreshore is a winner on both sides (north and south), but there is an especially good view of the cityscape across the water from the Mends Street jetty in South Perth. While you’re in the vicinity, breathe in a view of the entire city from King’s Park, take a tree-top walk, and mingle with the native fauna in one of the expansive park’s many quiet corners.

Finally, and farthest away from the city centre, Fremantle is both a suburb of Perth and its own miniature city. Mojo’s heavily supports local musicians and holds regular open mic nights, and you’ll find live gigs there to remember and respect. Bigger names (Augie March, Paul Kelly and Josh Pyke to name a few) often grace Fremantle’s Fly By Night, conveniently located near the suburb’s central strip. And don’t leave the area without sampling Cicerello’s famed fish and chips, and some sweet amber ale at local brewery and restaurant on the water, Little Creatures. Good food and a chilled beer within sight of the ocean – just what Perth does best.

Check out more from Melissa at her blog: http://morningelectric.wordpress.com/